Located in Southeast Asia, between the Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean, Indonesia has no less than 17,000 islands. Spread over 5,000 km, it is the largest archipelago on the planet. In search of adventures off the beaten track, we decided to go to Sumatra for 18 days.
Sumatra is the sixth largest island in the world and has many riches. If the island impresses with its exceptional wild landscapes, we were incredibly surprised by its cultural diversity. Indeed, the island of Sumatra brings together a mosaic of people (Muslims, Christians, Buddhists and a multitude of ethnic groups) where everyone coexists in harmony, united by Asian culture. Also, thanks to its lush vegetation, there is unique fauna and flora in the world.
Our road trip on the island of Sumatra in Indonesia is divided into 2 parts: the North and the West. First of all the North marked by the trek in search of Orangutans around Bukit Lawang then the volcanoes towards Berastagi before descending around Lake Toba. Then West Sumatra, to discover the Harau Valley, the pretty rice fields around Pariangan but above all to live 48 hours isolated in the forest with the "flower men" before resting in the Mentawai Islands.
We organized our stay in Indonesia with Columbus Voyages, and we are delighted to have gone through this agency because they prepared a tailor-made program for us according to our expectations, they also managed the loss of my suitcase in its entirety but above all because they allowed us to meet Johny and Ricky, our great guides during our 18 days in Sumatra.
Preparing for your trip to Sumatra: practical information
Visa: to be purchased directly at the airport,
Passport: valid for more than 6 months from the date of entry into Indonesia,
Currency: the rupiah (or Indonesian rupiah): 15,000 RP = 1 €,
Time difference: + 5h in summer / + 4h in winter,
Language: Indonesian, but over 700 dialects throughout Indonesia. English is widely spoken,
Transportation: rental car or private transport.
Internet: you can get a SIM card easily anywhere in the country,
When to go: Crossed by the equator, Sumatra enjoys a hot and humid climate all year round. From May to September it is the so-called “dry” period, but with global warming the locals told us that there was no longer really a dry season. We had rain almost every night,
How long: 15 days is the minimum! The island of Sumatra is very big. In 18 days we only made 2 small pieces,
Indispensable in the suitcase: sunscreen, mosquito repellent, water shoes, cap/hat, rubber boots essential for visiting the Mentawais,
Dress: T-shirt and light trousers, to avoid mosquito bites and sunburn, but also to avoid bothering Muslims,
Health: In remote areas, malaria is present. Get the antibiotic prescribed by your doctor. Honestly, the area that we feared the most for our stay in Sumatra was in the forest at the Flower Men. As a result, we had not started the treatment on the day of departure but I was rather waiting for the opinion of our guide on site. French people met in Indonesia had just had the experience and told us that they had not had mosquitoes. So I made the decision not to take the antibiotic and not to give it to our little Matteo to avoid the many side effects. Everyone is free to take it or not, this paragraph is purely personal.
Good to know:
87% of the Indonesian population is Muslim,
The women who wear the veil are not necessarily Muslim, they do it so as not to be bothered by men or simply to follow fashion,
Check domestic flights with Batik Air & Lion Air until the last minute as we have had time changes and even cancellations.
The ideal solution for booking your flights
We always go through Kayak to book our flights: a simple, practical and very affordable solution. With their search filters, we easily find what we are looking for according to our criteria and our budget. If you are looking for a quick and efficient solution to book your flights, we advise you to go through Kayak.com.
Road trip to Sumatra: with a baby?
Beware of the distances in Sumatra! The roads are sometimes of poor quality and to cover a few kilometers it takes a long time. Also, the island is really big!
The humid climate may surprise the children, Mattéo was a little grumpy the first few hours but it was difficult to say if it was because of the climate or the fatigue of the 26 hour flight.
The cuisine, which is often spicy, can really be a problem, but you will always find white rice. If I had thought of it before, I would have bought a tube of tomato sauce in France to be able to mix it with Mattéo rice. For the water, check that it does not come from the tap and favor fruits that are not cut up.
Itinerary of our 18-day road-trip in Sumatra
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 1: What to do in Medan?
From Marseille, it took us a little over 26 hours to reach Medan. No less than 4 planes (Marseille-Paris, Paris-Colombo, Colombo-Jakarta, Jakarta-Medan) and we knew that multiplying the flights meant multiplying the adventures. Everything had gone as planned until Indonesia and then… our suitcases which were to follow to Medan ended up on the carpet in Jakarta. Luckily our layover was long enough and we had enough time to check them in again on the last flight. And surprise, we only had 3 out of 4 suitcases! Perhaps she had gone directly to Medan, in doubt we opened a "Lost Baggage" file with the airline. And we did well because a few hours later, arrived in Medan, our suitcase was definitely not there. Jhonny, our guide for this first part of the trip, is waiting for us at the airport. After a few exchanges with the airline agents to try to find out where my suitcase was, we leave in the direction of the hotel.
If Medan is the capital of North Sumatra, it is also the largest city on the island of Sumatra. Known for its delicious culinary specialties, including Bolu Meranti which is a kind of flavored rolled cake, Medan is a bustling metropolis with a real Indonesian flair. Like most tourists, we were just passing through and didn't take the time to visit Medan.
What to visit in Medan?
The Maimum Palace,
Tjong A Fie Mansion,
The Masjid Al Mashun Mosque,
Graha Maria Annai Velangkanni Temple.
You can book a guided tour so you don't miss a thing and learn more about the city of Medan.
Where to sleep in Medan?
Horison Sky Kualanamu: located inside the airport, this hotel is ideal for waiting for your flight,
Radisson Medan: in the heart of Medan, this hotel is very good value for money (40€ per night).
Where to eat in Medan?
Soto Kesawan : taste this specialty – coconut milk with shrimp, chicken, potatoes and beef offal,
Tip Top Restaurant: it is the oldest restaurant in Medan, you must especially taste its ice cream and desserts,
Merdeka Walk : for donut stands and fast food outlets.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 2: Bukit Lawang
After a good night's sleep, we find Jhonny and take the road to Bukit Lawang. On the road, we stop at Binjai to buy some clothes while waiting for our suitcase to be found. We take the opportunity to buy a SIM card, observe the traffic and eat in Pondok Punudonk.
Located just under 100km from Medan, Bukit Lawang stretches along the Sungai Bohorok and is one of the most visited places in Sumatra. We come here to swim or tubing in the river, to rest in a hammock but especially to observe the Orangutans in the Gunung Leuser National Park. We arrive in this large tourist village at the beginning of the afternoon, on a Sunday. It's a chance because the place is full of locals!
No car travels along the Sungai Bohorok, only scooters go back and forth from the parking lot/hotel to drop off tourists' suitcases. We reach our hotel in 20 minutes on foot, it seems to me that it is the farthest from the car park. On the way we meet some Thomas monkeys for the greatest pleasure of Mattéo.
We enjoy the river for a few moments before getting into a becak (traditional motorized sidecar). We had to go homestay to learn how to cook but time decided otherwise. Our hosts lived right in the middle of the rice fields and the rain that was falling was far too strong for our little becaks to reach their house without any risk. We wait about twenty minutes in torrential rain before turning back. We keep a very good memory of this wet ride in local transport.
Back at the hotel, JC, our friend with whom we are sharing this trip to Indonesia, goes behind the stove to learn how to cook Nasi Goreng.
Where to sleep and eat in Bukit Lawang?
Jungle Inn : located in the heart of the jungle and along the river, we stayed there for 2 nights. The welcome, the smile and the availability of the staff particularly touched us. Our upstairs room with balcony offered us a nice view.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 3: Gunung Leuser National Park
Bukit Lawang Village is the main access point to Gunung Leuser Park. Covering an area of more than 9,000 km2, Gunung Leuser National Park takes its name from the famous Mount Leuser, which rises to 3,380 meters. If it shelters a fauna and a flora of a big diversity, it is especially one of the two places in the world where it is possible to observe the Orangutans in their natural environment (the second being south the island of Bonéo).
Lasting from 3 hours to several days, treks in the lush jungle promise unforgettable moments. Most tourists choose a 2-day trek to go deeper into the forest to have a better chance of encountering Orangutans. With Mattéo (2 and a half years old), we chose to spend a full day in Gunung Leuser Park. I do not make the suspense last longer, we observed these great red apes for long minutes and throughout our day. Having discussed with several travelers, I think we were lucky (or our guides, Sinar & Co, were really very good)! It was not difficult for our son to maintain silence, so magical is the encounter with the Orangutan. Studies have revealed that they share 97% of their genome with the human species. And if physically we can't really say that we look like them, their look is really unsettling.
For the return to our hotel, we opted for a rafting session. Sitting on inner tubes attached to each other, the descent on the river was smooth and pleasant. A moment of fun that ends the day in style.
To read: Observe Orangutans on the island of Sumatra.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 4: on the road to Berastagi
Today didn't really go as planned and we ran (or rather drove) after the weather. As I told you at the beginning, the island of Sumatra is very big and in 18 days, we had a rhythmic program that allowed us to see as many things as possible. Except that, after the loss of the luggage, there was the breakdown of the car. We were on the road between Bukit Lawang and Berastagi when our car decided to have brake problems. Our guide Johny and our driver handled the situation with a mechanic in less than 2 hours (very efficient!).
A few kilometers further, we stop for lunch in a restaurant on the highlands facing the Sinabung volcano before visiting a small traditional village.
We arrive in the rain and at night in Berastagi.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 5: What to do in Berastagi and its surroundings?
On the road to Lake Toba, 70 km from Medan, the town of Berastagi lies between the Sinabung volcano and the Sibayak volcano. The latter is still erupting intermittently and therefore prohibited to hikers. Located at 1300 meters, Berastagi maintains a cool climate all year round. This is clearly the refreshing break of our stay! The very rich soil makes it possible to grow many fruits and vegetables which are distributed throughout North Sumatra.
What to visit in Berastagi?
The traditional market,
Mount Sibayak and Sinabung,
Taman Lumbini Pagoda,
Hot springs.
What to see around Berastagi?
Dokan Village
Located 15km from Berastagi, we visit the village of Dokan to learn a little more about the Batak Karo culture. This village has a few traditional houses and we are invited to enter one of them. Johny explains to us that here 8 families live on the same floor, that they cook over a wood fire in the center of the room and that the toilets are in the middle of the village. A way of life that is very far from our daily life in Marseille!
The Sipiso-Piso waterfall
Considered the highest waterfall in Indonesia, it is a must-see place between Berastagi and Lake Toba. Narrow and impressive, these falls descend over 120 meters. You can admire it from the car park, but we advise you to go down the few steps to get a little closer to the waterfall.
Harranggaol fishing village
A real favorite for this place and its panoramic views. This small town on the northern shore of Lake Toba is famous for its fishing and sweet mangoes. We have lunch a nasi goreng and enjoy the view of the lake before heading back to Parapat.
The sun will soon set when we get on the ferry to reach the island of Samosir and more precisely the Tabo Cottages hotel on the Tuktuk Peninsula.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 6: Samosir and Lake Toba
The colors of the sky, the vegetation and Lake Toba during our ferry crossing, sent back a kind of serenity, of softness. I was looking forward to visiting the island of Samosir and to tell you the truth I loved it long before I set foot there.
The island of Samosir, or to be more accurate the peninsula of Samosir since it is connected by a bridge to the city of Pangururan, is an essential destination during a trip to Sumatra. With an area of 630m2, it is the largest "island within an island" in the world. It is the cradle of the Toba Batak culture and customs and rituals still animate the island today. Samosir is unique and relatively isolated. You will find pretty traditional villages along the coast, waterfalls but above all incredibly relaxing landscapes.
To visit the island, the ideal is to rent a scooter. We only stayed one day in Samosir, we had time to see what we wanted but honestly to fully enjoy the island, plan to stay there for 3 days.
To read: Samosir Island – 6 places to visit.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 7: Transfer to Padang
We leave the hotel very early to take the ferry and reach Parapat. We move away from Samosir and the landscapes are magnificent. It will take us 3 hours to reach Medan airport. It's time to leave our super guide Johny, and Boy the driver. It is with a heavy heart that we return to the airport ready to reach Padang.
But Air Lion, a local airline, decided to cancel our flight.
2 hours of negotiation later, we will finally reach Jakarta this evening to catch an early flight tomorrow morning and start the second part of our trip to Sumatra.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 8: From Padang to Bukittingi
Waking up very early allowed us to enjoy the sunrise in the air.
When we arrived in Padang, we were surprised to finally get my suitcase back!!! After 8 days of travel… Better late than never, you tell me. Then we meet Ricky, our guide for this second part of the stay with whom we will visit the surroundings of Padang and live an incredible experience.
For now, we are heading towards Bukittinggi. On the way we eat some mangosteens and make a short stop at the Lembah Anai waterfall.
Bukittinggi is located on the heights of Managkabau, about 900 meters above sea level, which makes the climate pleasant and cool. This charming little town is surrounded by green landscapes and benefits from a beautiful cultural and historical richness. Three volcanoes surround it: Merapi still active, dormant Singgalang and Tandikat. This is also where you can see the Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world.
What to visit in Bukittinggi?
The market,
The clock tower (Jam Gadang),
Panorama of the Sianok Canyon (Ngarai Sianok),
Japanese tunnels (Gua Jepang or Lobang Jepang).
Where to sleep in Bukittinggi?
Padi Ecolodge : atypical accommodation in the heart of the rice fields.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 9: The Harau Valley
This morning, as we left Bukittinggi, we were stopped by schoolchildren rehearsing their parade for August 17: Independence Day. Throughout the country, parades and ceremonies are organized for the occasion. An unprecedented moment that we are happy to experience.
The Harau Valley
A little later in the day, we arrive at the Harau Valley. Between the cliffs and the green rice fields, the landscapes are breathtaking. The steep walls are not only an attraction for photographers, climbing enthusiasts can also find what they are looking for.
Life is peaceful here and nature is still well preserved. We trade our car for a becak (traditional motorized rickshaw) to cross the rice fields, discover waterfalls and visit a chip factory.
Kapalo banda taram
After the meal, Ricky invites us to discover another place. Located about 18km from the Harau Valley, Kapalo banda taram is a place that I particularly loved during our trip to Indonesia. We went there on a Sunday afternoon and we were the only foreign tourists. We embark on bamboos for a quick scouting, then walk with our feet in the river taking advantage of the many buoys and swings. Many Indonesians around us take pictures of us and also encourage us to taste a chocolate/cheese pancake. As surprising as it may seem… it was delicious!
On the way back, we witness a wonderful sunset over the rice fields.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 10: Pagaruyaung Palace – Pariangan
Before returning to Padang, we visit the Minangkabau Palace and have tea in the rice fields of Pariangan.
Pagaruyang Grand Palace
5km north of Batu Sangkar, stronghold of the Minangkabau clan of the Red Tanah Datar, this palace is impressive, both outside and inside. Destroyed by fire in 2007, it was rebuilt. To fully live the experience, we decided to put on the traditional costumes.
Pariangan
Last stop before returning to Padang and not the least. It is clearly here that the most beautiful rice fields of Sumatra are located. A breathtaking landscape that we admired while tasting the best banana donuts of my life!
Also, Pariangan is one of the best preserved traditional Minangkabau villages, including many traditional houses. Thanks to Ricky, our wonderful guide, we were invited by a family he knew to eat soup and visit their house. A unique moment that we had to cut short because we had to hit the road again.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 11/12/13: Among the Mentawai
Let the adventure begin! Off the island of Sumatra is the Mentawai archipelago of which only the 4 largest islands are inhabited. From Padang, it took us 7 hours by boat to reach Siberut, 30 minutes by van, 1 hour by canoe and 40 minutes of walking in the rain to reach the “Men-Flowers”. Experiencing an ancestral way of life is worth it! It was not easy for our little Mattéo but I continue to believe that a child adapts to everything and despite his young age, he has memories in his head that we regularly bring back to life through photos. Especially since he had the chance to meet Abisse (7 years old) with whom he played a lot.
For 3 days, we lived to the rhythm of the sun (and pigs too…). The Mentawai of the forest still live like their ancestors. Cookie welcomes us to her Uma. This large wooden house on stilts has no water, no electricity. We sleep on mats on the ground, the shower is outside (well, it's the river, you understood) and as for the toilets, it's also in nature, here and there. … What is the day is almost no problem, the night is something else! It's hard to be more authentic...
During the day, we go to the forest to collect some worms (a real source of protein), fish for shrimp, make a tree bark loincloth, sing, chat, smoke, cook, play, sleep... This is the ritual of the Mentawai. We disconnect for 3 days and fully live the experience.
An incredible experience that would not have been so wonderful without Ricky our great guide, Ceboob and Laget, Cookie's grandson but also local guide.
Read: Our experience with the Mentawai.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 14/15/16/17: Rest on Aloita Island
It took us 2 hours to reach Aloita from Siberut. It is time to leave our guide. If we like to travel, it is above all to discover another culture and also to meet people. But after 5 days together, it is with a tight throat and a heart filled with sadness that I am about to say goodbye to Ricky. From the first moments I adored him: his accent, his humor, his benevolence, his kindness, his attention to Matteo... No negative point. So thank you Ricky, thank you for everything!
After the effort, the comfort. We spend our last days at the Aloita Resort. Nestled in a protected corner of a small island and surrounded by white sand, this resort has just 10 beautifully designed stand-alone bungalows. Our villa was in the middle of the palm trees and directly overlooked the beach. Between the turquoise water and the tropical vegetation, it is difficult to find a more exotic setting... The place is ideal for surfers but also for yogis.
We went out by boat for half a day, to go around the island and enjoy the sunset. We could also paddle in a mangrove but we preferred to chat with the French people we had already met on the island of Siberut.
Road trip to Sumatra – Day 18: Padang
Head to Marseilles. 4 flights, 36 hours. We should have taken 28 hours but no more fuel during our stopover in Sri Lanka so we waited wisely, for a long time… The galleys of travel are often the best memories but this one will not outweigh all our wonderful moments spent on the island of Sumatra.
Thanks to the Columbus Voyages agency for this authentic trip, at the up to our expectations. Do not hesitate to contact them on our behalf, they will be happy to create a tailor-made trip for you that you will not soon forget.
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